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Whenever compiling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect well-known award-winning establishments. Yet, situated prominently among these food titans is a modest salonu found in a distant part of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has left the family completely surprised.

“I’m completely astonished,” remarks a family member, alluding to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their humble restaurant achieving such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its original charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the food, and this establishment more than delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent quality.

It is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning outside its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this gastronomic honour.