Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and travelers alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, UNESCO recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a select roster of world cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it becomes part of a global network of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this time-honored city is hardly a shock to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the limelight for what has consistently shaped its essence: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and taken to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of food experimentation, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known treasures that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and demanding. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but say that their children are reluctant to master the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will motivate more people worldwide to explore these narratives and experience the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
